from Black Rock City to Bangkok, and beyond, by Bones and Lulu



when it rains...it pours


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Since our last posts, we've stayed in many places and had tons of new adventures. We've gotten used to the cold showers, bare bungalows, and damp clothes (rain plus humidity equals mildew). We find each new place more endearing then the next - even when we find huge spiders, no toilet paper or sink, and the constant hammering every morning at 7am (construction is a constant so far on every island and beach).

The second place we stayed at in Ko Phi Phi was an awesome (but pricey) bungalow on Relax Beach. It cost us $700 baht a night, but it was very private. We really were the only ones there for like 3 days straight. People came and went, but we really lived there those days. We spent a rainy afternoon chilling at the restaurant just playing games, eating and drinking beers. We hung with all the people who worked there. It was heaven. Who needs the sun anyway? We decided to finally pay our tab and move on. And move on we did.

Next up was a ferry ride to Krabi, a cute little town that we really did not get to see because it was pouring rain the whole time. We did find a little, old, wooden guest house right at the pier for really cheap. This cost us $150 baht a night. This room was basically just a really hard bed and the bathroom was down the rickety old stairs. We definitely did not use the shower there (scary!) The only thing we liked about this place was that there was an awesome night market (delicious, cheap, authentic thai food) right out front and it was also convenient to our long tail that would take us over to Railay beach in the morning.

So 13 of us piled into a longtail and headed to Railay beach. We loved it there. Stepping onto the beach, we were not bombarded by guys trying to get us to stay at their guesthouse (like in Ko Phi Phi). It was so chill over here - we loved it. Our mission was to get over to Hat Ton Sai which was the next beach over. The only problem was there was only 2 ways over there - climbing over the rocks at low tide, and climbing up and over the mountain through the jungle. While Chris went over through the jungle to check it out, I got a wonderful foot massage on the beach. An hour (and pouring rain) later, Chris made it back with the news that we just couldn't get over there with our big backpacks that night. The trek was too tough, especially in the rain, and the tide wouldn't be low for hours. So back up the beach we went and found a very cute bungalow for $300 baht. This one had a nice bed, decent bathroom (still a cold shower) and was surrounded by jungle. It would have to do. We went out that night and found a strip of bars up the other end of the beach that we did not know were there. We met some cool people and had a really great night. There have been tons of Israeli's on all the islands and we came to find out that there are tons of young Israeli's travelling right now because they just finished their army service of 3 years.

We hung with Pete - a nice young british guy, and Nir and Karen, 2 Israeli's on their honeymoon as well. We got into lots of politics and it was amazing to interact with others who have a completely different point of view of the world, based on where they live - but who we also have so much in common with at the same time. Also, Chris and I needed to meet others at this point, we needed to add some new conversation to the mix!

At the crack of dawn, we hightailed it out of our bungalow to make low tide and get ourselves over to Ton Sai. What a crazy path we had to take with our backpacks! Very challenging, but so rewarding to have finally made it over. We made it just as the rain came pouring down yet again. Finally we found our new home, bungalows in the jungle with a huge king size bed under an awesome mosquito canopy and the average bathroom with a cold shower. All for just $150 baht a night! We loved it.

We spent 4 glorious days at Ton Sai. It was just the paradise we needed. We went kayaking, on a 4 island snorkeling trip (saw black tipped reef sharks, a squid, tons of colorful fish and amazing coral), did lots of hiking back and forth through the jungle and over the rocks at low tide, and best of all, we did some rock climbing. Ton Sai is known far and wide for its rock climbing - how could we not try this? We headed to Wee's rock climbing school and spent the afternoon with Nui and Nuing and yeah, it was the hardest thing i've ever done but at the same time, exhilarating! My 3rd climb I was going to give up, it was so hard and so high and I was so tired. But there were so many people cheering me on and Chris was my belay and I trusted he would keep me safe, so I ventured further and further up. I didn't make it to the top, but I was so close and so proud of myself. What a day!

We had sunset drinks with our new friends, I got a massage of course to help with my aching muscles and then it was time for bed. We had our last night at Ton Sai, spent the morning saying goodbye to new friends and headed off to Ao Nang to catch our bus for the 13 hour bus ride to Bangkok.

As I write this, sitting at my aunt trix's friend Jeanne's place in Bangkok, we come to find out that Bangkok is in a state of emergency. Weird news to get after spending the day all over the city. But we are fine, and things are great and we had a fabulous day. I will let Chris give the details in his next post. Just know we are safe!!!

and of course, its pouring rain.


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