It's been a while since we've posted. We've had a crazy last week in Laos, and hopefully I can convey it through my writing. Right now we're in a little town called Vang Vieng in Central Laos. We took a bus here that left at 8:30am in the morning and arrived at about 5pm. This bus was supposed to be 6 hours, instead it took almost 9. Laos is known for its unpaved roads, bus breakdowns and just all around trouble getting from here to there. We've experienced this many times over in our short amount of time here. Luckily we've looked at all of it as part of the experience.
So last we left it we were leaving Pai for Chaing Khong to head over to Xauy Xai, Laos to begin our Gibbon experience. We had an uncomfortable, very foggy minivan drive in the middle of the night from Pai to Chaing Khong. We got across the border with minimal trouble and headed up into the town to find a place to stay. After a month in Thailand, now we had to begin our focus on being in a new country, new language, new food, etc. A festival was just starting in this town - they were having their annual boat races on the Mekong! The town was preparing for this party - and we were pretty excited to be a part of it. Our first night in Laos was full of drinking, eating, dancing and basically entertaining the people of this town. Something about us had everyone captivated! The kids here basically just look at us and start giggling and everyone else just stares. Maybe its Chris's height, not sure but its really funny. They are not that used to Westerners I guess, though this is a major border crossing point with Thailand, but I guess no one really sticks around here.
That afternoon/evening we run into an Israeli girl named Hagar who we met on the ride in from Pai. She was going with us on the Gibbon Experience. We met a British couple named Kate and Peter as well as a British guy named James who'd be joining us as well. It wasn't until the next morning where we got to meet the other 5 people who'd be sharing in this crazy experience we were about to embark on (we were 11 altogether). There was Brad, an American from NY, Jill and Keira from England, Tim also from England and Liel, a French-Canadian. We all instantly hit it off and jumped into this truck they call a Samlor (2 benches) and took off. There was 8 of us in back, and within the 3 hour journey to the first village, we were all laughing so hard we knew we had a great few days ahead of us.
The road to Bokeo, Laos is actually in the process of becoming a highway that will go from China to Thailand. They have been working on this road for years and apparently have a lot more to do. This section of it needs lots of work, at this point its still a dirt road but during rainy season becomes a muddy and very bumpy dirt road. You can imagine what this was like with all of us squished in the back - just bumping along. So when we finally get to the village, we come to find out (not so much info was given to us ahead of time) that usually in rainy season, the truck can't go over the river so we'd have to start walking at this point (a 7 hour one!) but the driver wants to try it today. Just our luck, the truck makes it across (we had to get out towards the end) and then we start up this really, really muddy road, so muddy, we had to get out and push or pull the truck a few different times. It was hilarious and just crazy and "part of the experience." ha. It gets better. So about an hour or so later we have to give up on the truck and just walk. It is so muddy, wearing our new teva-like shoes we bought in Pai were not going to help. So basically everyone had to take off their shoes and walk through the mud. We walked for about 3 hours this way. Up and down hills, in the rain, in the mud, we chatted and just did it.
So then we get to the next village finally and we are given some sandwiches to eat. We meet one of our guides Som, a really sweet 16 year old kid, and head out on another hour and a half journey, this time up and down through the jungle. We did have our shoes on, but we were so slippery (it was raining) that it was not an easy trek. At this point we wished they told us to bring hiking shoes. So finally we get to the Gibbon Experience camp where we meet the rest of the guides, the 2 monkeys and a gibbon who they are taking care of as well as a baby bear. Yes, a baby bear.
We learn to put on our zipline harness, they go over it a few times until we feel safe, and then we're off on our first zip into the first treehouse, treehouse 1. There are 4 treehouses, but we are only using TH 1 and 3 because TH 2 is leaking and TH 4 is too far to get to in rainy season. This treehouse was pretty awesome - has running water, 3 levels and an incredible view. It was also about 30 meters (100 feet) up. It is starting to get dark, so 4 of our group leave to go stay in TH 3 and the rest of us go for a few practice zips around. It is both exhilarating and scary and it somehow got scarier for me each time I had to zip!! But once flying across the cable and looking out over the vast forest into the mist in the mountains ahead of me, it was just pure adrenaline rush and I loved it. We finally make our way back to our TH. Oh yeah, one thing I forgot to mention is the leeches. Yeah, there are leeches and they just stick to you and start sucking and to get them off you need to burn them. Then you start bleeding and it takes a while to stop. Not the most fun part of this.
So we relax, eat a yummy mostly vegetarian Laos dinner, light some candles, take in the sounds and smells of the jungle we are directly a part of and just enjoy the evening. Hagar teaches us a card game called shithead and we play until we're tired. We slept on a big futon with a comfy blanket, under a mosquito net and fell asleep to all the crazy sounds. It poured all early morning, but that didn't stop us from a before breakfast zip. We went out on like 3-4 zips and came back just in time for breakfast. The guides were there with us, walking us through the jungle, helping us attach our safety and telling us when to go. We got instantly filthy from the first instant we zipped the day before, that we knew we'd be filthy for the next few days. We spent the rest of the day zipping around the trees on our own. The guides came with us sometimes, but sometimes we found ourselves having to make our own calls "OKAAAAAY" to the person across on the other side. In one spot there were 2 lines on top of each other so when one person went one way, another was either above or below them. That was really cool. I even saw a rainbow while I flew through the air. That was the highlight for sure. We felt like pros by the end of the day. It was amazing. The whole journey to get there was worth this feeling of flying above and amongst the jungle.
That night we played another card game that Keira taught us. Some of the young Laos guides joined us and it was just so sweet seeing how much fun they were having. Lara (the person who was in charge of all this) has been teaching them English so it was really fun teaching them new words and having them teach us as well. It rained again during the night, which we knew meant that we had a 7 hour journey ahead of us. We woke and did a bunch of before breakfast zips, knowing that this was our last opportunity. And then it was time to set out on our journey.
The walk out was both challenging and beautiful, aggravating and serene. In all it took us about 6 hours to complete this walk. Part of it was in the jungle and very slippery and steep. Part of it was on the muddy road, part of it the road was just fine and it was delightful. We were exhausted by the time we got back to the second village. A lot of our group made it back like 1 1/2 hours before us because they were wearing good hiking shoes. It made a big difference. So after some food and beer, we had to get going on another journey back to the original town we started in.
Pete & Kate and Chris & I were going to take a bus up to Luang Nam Tha originally and then work our way back down from there to Luang Prabang. The road was too muddy and it was impossible to get up there so we had to change our plans and go back to Xuay Xai. 6 of us had the good fortune to get in the back of a pickup truck (which we later found out was NOT 4 wheel drive). Again, we get stuck in the mud and had to push. Luckily the driver has chains and puts them on. We were convinced we'd be sleeping in the back of the pickup that night. But alas, the chains work and we manage to make it back to Xuay Xai with barely a scrape. Check out some pix!
The whole group met up for a very reflective dinner. We talked of what we liked and what we disliked. The program is still in the beginning stages and definitely needs some work. They need to give us more info and get a truck that can drive you all the way to the 2nd village. There are more safety issues they need to work on, but it was an experience I will never, ever forget. Also, we made such good friends along the way. This brings us to where we are now.
The next morning, 6 of us (Kate, Pete, Liel, Brad & Us) decide to take the fast boat to Luang Prabang. The thing is, there is a section in our handy Laos guide that mentions how dangerous this boat is and that you should only take it in an emergency. The only other option to Luang Prabang is a slow boat that takes 2 days and we heard it was torture. We just couldn't sit on a boat for 2 days after that adventure we had just been on. We went back and forth a few times, but in the end, we decided to take the risk and go on the 6 hour fast boat. Best decision ever. Our driver was awesome, we stopped a bunch of times and made it to LP in no time. It wasn't the most comfortable ride and was a bit noisy, but it was fast and fun and the Mekong was amazing to ride on and the scenery was beautiful.
LP turned out to be a fantastic little town, very French and beautiful surrounded by 2 rivers and quaint little buildings and fabulous restaurants. Just the place to chill out and relax. We went to a beautiful waterfall and swam all day. The night market was just amazing as well. We spent a few days there, hanging with our friends (it was so nice to have a crew to hang out with!) until it was time to move on. Brad convinced us to leave with him to Vang Vieng on the 6 hour bus ride. And so we did. So we've taken in all the sights and fun of this town - tubing down a river, climbing in and out of caves, motorscootering around and now its time to move on. Our next destination is Vientiane - hopefully we get there in the 3 hours we're told it takes, but I won't hold my breath....
oh, and check out Chris's blog post about the Gibbon X on Thrunk!
So last we left it we were leaving Pai for Chaing Khong to head over to Xauy Xai, Laos to begin our Gibbon experience. We had an uncomfortable, very foggy minivan drive in the middle of the night from Pai to Chaing Khong. We got across the border with minimal trouble and headed up into the town to find a place to stay. After a month in Thailand, now we had to begin our focus on being in a new country, new language, new food, etc. A festival was just starting in this town - they were having their annual boat races on the Mekong! The town was preparing for this party - and we were pretty excited to be a part of it. Our first night in Laos was full of drinking, eating, dancing and basically entertaining the people of this town. Something about us had everyone captivated! The kids here basically just look at us and start giggling and everyone else just stares. Maybe its Chris's height, not sure but its really funny. They are not that used to Westerners I guess, though this is a major border crossing point with Thailand, but I guess no one really sticks around here.
That afternoon/evening we run into an Israeli girl named Hagar who we met on the ride in from Pai. She was going with us on the Gibbon Experience. We met a British couple named Kate and Peter as well as a British guy named James who'd be joining us as well. It wasn't until the next morning where we got to meet the other 5 people who'd be sharing in this crazy experience we were about to embark on (we were 11 altogether). There was Brad, an American from NY, Jill and Keira from England, Tim also from England and Liel, a French-Canadian. We all instantly hit it off and jumped into this truck they call a Samlor (2 benches) and took off. There was 8 of us in back, and within the 3 hour journey to the first village, we were all laughing so hard we knew we had a great few days ahead of us.
The road to Bokeo, Laos is actually in the process of becoming a highway that will go from China to Thailand. They have been working on this road for years and apparently have a lot more to do. This section of it needs lots of work, at this point its still a dirt road but during rainy season becomes a muddy and very bumpy dirt road. You can imagine what this was like with all of us squished in the back - just bumping along. So when we finally get to the village, we come to find out (not so much info was given to us ahead of time) that usually in rainy season, the truck can't go over the river so we'd have to start walking at this point (a 7 hour one!) but the driver wants to try it today. Just our luck, the truck makes it across (we had to get out towards the end) and then we start up this really, really muddy road, so muddy, we had to get out and push or pull the truck a few different times. It was hilarious and just crazy and "part of the experience." ha. It gets better. So about an hour or so later we have to give up on the truck and just walk. It is so muddy, wearing our new teva-like shoes we bought in Pai were not going to help. So basically everyone had to take off their shoes and walk through the mud. We walked for about 3 hours this way. Up and down hills, in the rain, in the mud, we chatted and just did it.
So then we get to the next village finally and we are given some sandwiches to eat. We meet one of our guides Som, a really sweet 16 year old kid, and head out on another hour and a half journey, this time up and down through the jungle. We did have our shoes on, but we were so slippery (it was raining) that it was not an easy trek. At this point we wished they told us to bring hiking shoes. So finally we get to the Gibbon Experience camp where we meet the rest of the guides, the 2 monkeys and a gibbon who they are taking care of as well as a baby bear. Yes, a baby bear.
We learn to put on our zipline harness, they go over it a few times until we feel safe, and then we're off on our first zip into the first treehouse, treehouse 1. There are 4 treehouses, but we are only using TH 1 and 3 because TH 2 is leaking and TH 4 is too far to get to in rainy season. This treehouse was pretty awesome - has running water, 3 levels and an incredible view. It was also about 30 meters (100 feet) up. It is starting to get dark, so 4 of our group leave to go stay in TH 3 and the rest of us go for a few practice zips around. It is both exhilarating and scary and it somehow got scarier for me each time I had to zip!! But once flying across the cable and looking out over the vast forest into the mist in the mountains ahead of me, it was just pure adrenaline rush and I loved it. We finally make our way back to our TH. Oh yeah, one thing I forgot to mention is the leeches. Yeah, there are leeches and they just stick to you and start sucking and to get them off you need to burn them. Then you start bleeding and it takes a while to stop. Not the most fun part of this.
So we relax, eat a yummy mostly vegetarian Laos dinner, light some candles, take in the sounds and smells of the jungle we are directly a part of and just enjoy the evening. Hagar teaches us a card game called shithead and we play until we're tired. We slept on a big futon with a comfy blanket, under a mosquito net and fell asleep to all the crazy sounds. It poured all early morning, but that didn't stop us from a before breakfast zip. We went out on like 3-4 zips and came back just in time for breakfast. The guides were there with us, walking us through the jungle, helping us attach our safety and telling us when to go. We got instantly filthy from the first instant we zipped the day before, that we knew we'd be filthy for the next few days. We spent the rest of the day zipping around the trees on our own. The guides came with us sometimes, but sometimes we found ourselves having to make our own calls "OKAAAAAY" to the person across on the other side. In one spot there were 2 lines on top of each other so when one person went one way, another was either above or below them. That was really cool. I even saw a rainbow while I flew through the air. That was the highlight for sure. We felt like pros by the end of the day. It was amazing. The whole journey to get there was worth this feeling of flying above and amongst the jungle.
That night we played another card game that Keira taught us. Some of the young Laos guides joined us and it was just so sweet seeing how much fun they were having. Lara (the person who was in charge of all this) has been teaching them English so it was really fun teaching them new words and having them teach us as well. It rained again during the night, which we knew meant that we had a 7 hour journey ahead of us. We woke and did a bunch of before breakfast zips, knowing that this was our last opportunity. And then it was time to set out on our journey.
The walk out was both challenging and beautiful, aggravating and serene. In all it took us about 6 hours to complete this walk. Part of it was in the jungle and very slippery and steep. Part of it was on the muddy road, part of it the road was just fine and it was delightful. We were exhausted by the time we got back to the second village. A lot of our group made it back like 1 1/2 hours before us because they were wearing good hiking shoes. It made a big difference. So after some food and beer, we had to get going on another journey back to the original town we started in.
Pete & Kate and Chris & I were going to take a bus up to Luang Nam Tha originally and then work our way back down from there to Luang Prabang. The road was too muddy and it was impossible to get up there so we had to change our plans and go back to Xuay Xai. 6 of us had the good fortune to get in the back of a pickup truck (which we later found out was NOT 4 wheel drive). Again, we get stuck in the mud and had to push. Luckily the driver has chains and puts them on. We were convinced we'd be sleeping in the back of the pickup that night. But alas, the chains work and we manage to make it back to Xuay Xai with barely a scrape. Check out some pix!
The whole group met up for a very reflective dinner. We talked of what we liked and what we disliked. The program is still in the beginning stages and definitely needs some work. They need to give us more info and get a truck that can drive you all the way to the 2nd village. There are more safety issues they need to work on, but it was an experience I will never, ever forget. Also, we made such good friends along the way. This brings us to where we are now.
The next morning, 6 of us (Kate, Pete, Liel, Brad & Us) decide to take the fast boat to Luang Prabang. The thing is, there is a section in our handy Laos guide that mentions how dangerous this boat is and that you should only take it in an emergency. The only other option to Luang Prabang is a slow boat that takes 2 days and we heard it was torture. We just couldn't sit on a boat for 2 days after that adventure we had just been on. We went back and forth a few times, but in the end, we decided to take the risk and go on the 6 hour fast boat. Best decision ever. Our driver was awesome, we stopped a bunch of times and made it to LP in no time. It wasn't the most comfortable ride and was a bit noisy, but it was fast and fun and the Mekong was amazing to ride on and the scenery was beautiful.
LP turned out to be a fantastic little town, very French and beautiful surrounded by 2 rivers and quaint little buildings and fabulous restaurants. Just the place to chill out and relax. We went to a beautiful waterfall and swam all day. The night market was just amazing as well. We spent a few days there, hanging with our friends (it was so nice to have a crew to hang out with!) until it was time to move on. Brad convinced us to leave with him to Vang Vieng on the 6 hour bus ride. And so we did. So we've taken in all the sights and fun of this town - tubing down a river, climbing in and out of caves, motorscootering around and now its time to move on. Our next destination is Vientiane - hopefully we get there in the 3 hours we're told it takes, but I won't hold my breath....
oh, and check out Chris's blog post about the Gibbon X on Thrunk!
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