from Black Rock City to Bangkok, and beyond, by Bones and Lulu



Northward, with Jack


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Hotel California is on the muzak here at the Alley 9 Guest House in Chiang Mai, and I'm shocked. We've heard this song many, many times since we landed in Thailand, but usually by everyone but the Eagles. And when it's not a cover version of Hotel California, it's either Jack Johnson, Tracy Chapman or Bob Marley. Everywhere. We thought maybe Jack was just a beach thing, but no. Even way up north it's Jack Jack Jack Jack and more Jack. They *love* Jack Johnson in Thailand. I wonder if he knows that. And there is a deep love for Mr. Marley here, too. Last night we found a bar called Babylon and it was thoroughly rasta-ed, and the band played truly excellent versions of some of Bob's best. In the bar before that it was a Jack Johnson DVD, but it was cool to see some shots of the Greek Theater in Berkeley. It reminded me that one of the things I'm really missing here is live music. But there's plenty of other things to keep us occupied. Today we rented a motor-scooter and cruised around the Old City part of Chiang Mai. It was a lot of fun, but a little hairy, too. Driving is intense here, and that it's opposite of the US makes things even more tricky. There were periods of rain, too and that only increased my concerns. All went well, though, and it was a ton of fun to zip in and out of the little sois (small sidestreets) with Lu clinging to my shoulders, the Nancy Chandler Map pressed against my back.

Between Chiang Mai and Bangkok there was a stop in Aythuya. That's old capital of Thailand (and by old they mean like two thousand years ago or something.) Lots of old, ruined wats that were amazing to explore, and then at night they light them up and it makes their shapes and shadows even more spectacular. That was pretty much the only good thing about Aythuya, though. I have a feeling that the translated name of that city would be Divine City of Giant, Endless mosquito's and Home of the Six Thousand Stray, Feral and Fearless Dogs on the Banks of the Muddiest Rivers in All of Mudtown. Definitely not the Divine Gem that is Bangkok and the utter coolness of Chiang Mai. If Bangkok is comparable to NYC, then Chiang Mia is more like Boston or SF, and Aythuya is sorta Bridgeporty, CT in nature.

Our time in Thailand is quickly coming to an end, for now, though. We've still got about a week left before it's time to head to Laos. Tomorrow we are going trekking south of the city. Gonna see some waterfalls, ride the river on a bamboo raft, hang with some elephants and then wander through a hilltribe community. Some go for longer and stay overnight with the hilltribes, but we're only making a day of it. After that it's 2 days at an elephant Conservation Center, then back here for the weekend and then it's Laos-time. Just as we're finally getting comfortable it's time to shake it up again!!

Lu is off a yoga for a while, and I'm heading over to a bar and to chill out and read. Picked up a copy of Ratner's Star by Don DeLillo this afternoon and I'm eager to get going on it. I already finished the three books I brought along, and so for the last few days I've been bookless. Instead, on the overnight trainride I read Utne Magazine and we played many many hands of Rummy 500 (Lu kicks my ass repeatedly at cards, but I did win one, finally, last night. Although there's a chance she threw it just to keep me from getting grumpy. :-)

Did a doublepost this time 'cause I had some time, so the one below is new, too. Enjoy!


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